SPUN SILK YARN
The cocoon filament remaining from the reeling process and the damaged discolored, or imperfectly shaped cocoons become the raw material for lustrous, creamy colored spun silk yarn.
These cocoons must also have the sericin removed (de-gummed). Then the fiber is cut into uniform lengths and carded to remove short tangled bits as well as the brown pupa inside the cocoons.
Combing makes all the fibers parallel in a sliver which is then spun into a silk yarn. Spun silk yarn is the most familiar yarn made available to hand loom workers and high quality spun silk yarn is easy to work with.
NOIL OR RAW SILK YARN
The shortest fibers containing crushed pupa left behind after making higher quality spun silk are made into noil or raw silk yarn. The short fiber lengths mean a loss of luster and body. Raw silk yarn has the strongest silk odor due to impurities in the yarn. The majority of the smell goes after washing, but can return again when wet.
Higher quality noil or raw silk yarn is easy to use.
For the 3 types of silk yarn produced in the Thai sericulture industry, there are variations of twist and ply which give them different characteristics. The Thai silk fabric sheen is affected by twisting and plying. A silk yarn fabric surface with the least interruptions will reflect the light for optimum sheen. The more twists and plies in the yarn fabric, the more the surface is broken so there is less sheen.
The processes involved in making silk yarn fabrics are quite complex